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Falconry Gloves & Gauntlets

A falconry glove is the single most-used piece of equipment in the sport. It protects your hand and forearm from powerful talons, provides a secure perching surface for your bird, and becomes the foundation of every training session and hunt. Choosing the right glove matters more than most beginners realize.

Why Your Glove Matters

Your falconry glove is not just protective gear. It is your primary point of physical contact with your bird. Every time you pick up your hawk or falcon, every training session on the creance, every moment in the field, and every feeding happens on that glove. A poorly fitting or inadequately constructed glove creates problems that cascade through your entire falconry experience.

A glove that is too thin allows talons to puncture through to your skin, causing flinching that makes the bird nervous and reluctant to return to the fist. A glove that is too thick and stiff reduces your dexterity, making it difficult to manipulate jesses, tie knots, or handle food rewards. A glove that fits poorly will shift on your hand when the bird lands, creating instability that erodes the bird's confidence in you as a perch.

Most experienced falconers own multiple gloves: a lighter everyday glove for manning and training sessions with smaller hawks, and a heavier gauntlet for larger raptors or for field use where extended protection matters. Think of your glove as an investment in the relationship between you and your bird rather than a simple piece of safety equipment.

Types of Falconry Gloves

Falconry gloves fall into several categories based on construction, length, and intended use:

Single-Layer Gloves

Single-layer gloves are made from a single thickness of leather, typically cowhide or deerskin. They offer good dexterity and are suitable for smaller raptors such as kestrels, merlins, and small accipiters like sharp-shinned hawks. These gloves are lighter, more flexible, and easier to break in. However, they provide limited protection against larger, more powerful birds. Most single-layer gloves are wrist-length or extend a few inches past the wrist.

Double-Layer Gloves

Double-layer gloves feature an outer layer of durable leather reinforced with a second inner layer, often of softer leather or suede. This construction provides significantly more protection against talon puncture while maintaining reasonable flexibility. Double-layer gloves are the standard choice for red-tailed hawks, Harris's hawks, and other buteos. They typically extend to mid-forearm length.

Full Gauntlets

Gauntlets extend from the fingertips to the elbow or beyond, providing maximum forearm coverage. They are essential for large falcons, eagles, and great horned owls, any bird whose talons can reach well past the wrist. Gauntlets are usually triple-layered in the hand area and double-layered along the forearm. They are heavier and reduce dexterity compared to shorter gloves, but the protection is non-negotiable when working with powerful raptors.

Hybrid and Sport Gloves

Some manufacturers produce hybrid designs that offer gauntlet-length coverage with thinner, more flexible materials in the finger area. These strike a balance between protection and dexterity and are popular among falconers who fly medium-sized hawks in the field where they need to handle equipment quickly.

Materials and Construction

The leather used in a falconry glove determines its durability, flexibility, puncture resistance, and feel. Here are the most common materials:

• Cowhide is the most widely available and affordable option. It is durable and provides solid puncture resistance but can be stiff when new and requires a break-in period. Chrome-tanned cowhide is softer out of the box than vegetable-tanned.
• Deerskin offers excellent softness and flexibility from the start. It conforms to your hand shape quickly and provides good grip even when wet. However, deerskin is less puncture-resistant than cowhide and wears out faster with heavy use.
• Elk hide is considered the premium material for falconry gloves. It combines the softness and flexibility of deerskin with puncture resistance that rivals or exceeds cowhide. Elk hide gloves are thicker without being stiff, and they hold up well over years of use. The downside is cost: elk-hide gloves typically run two to three times the price of cowhide equivalents.
• Kangaroo leather is increasingly used in high-end gloves. It is extremely strong for its thickness, allowing manufacturers to build thinner, more flexible gloves without sacrificing protection. Kangaroo leather is also naturally water-resistant.
• Buffalo hide is occasionally used for heavy-duty gauntlets intended for eagles and large owls. It is the thickest and most puncture-resistant option but sacrifices flexibility.

Construction quality matters as much as material. Look for double-stitched seams, reinforced thumb gussets (the thumb takes the most abuse), and a smooth interior that will not create pressure points. Welted seams, where a strip of leather covers the stitching, last longer than flat-stitched seams because the thread is protected from abrasion.

How to Size a Falconry Glove

A properly sized falconry glove fits snugly but allows you to open and close your hand without restriction. Unlike fashion gloves, falconry gloves should not have excess material at the fingertips, as loose leather catches on equipment and reduces your ability to handle jesses and swivels.

To measure your hand, wrap a flexible measuring tape around the widest part of your palm (across the knuckles, excluding the thumb) and note the circumference in inches:

• Small: 7 to 7.5 inches
• Medium: 8 to 8.5 inches
• Large: 9 to 9.5 inches
• X-Large: 10 inches and above

If you are between sizes, size up. Leather stretches slightly with use, but a glove that is too tight will never be comfortable. Also consider finger length: some manufacturers offer standard and long-finger variants. If your fingers are significantly longer or shorter than average, look for brands that account for this or consider a custom-made glove.

Always order gloves for your non-dominant hand. In falconry, the bird sits on your left hand (if you are right-handed) so your dominant hand remains free to handle equipment, tie knots, and manage food.

Matching Gloves to Your Bird

The species you fly determines the minimum level of protection you need:

• Kestrels and merlins: A single-layer deerskin or thin cowhide glove is sufficient. These small falcons have relatively weak grip strength, and a heavy glove actually makes training more difficult because you cannot feel the subtle foot pressure changes that indicate the bird's comfort level.
• Cooper's hawks and sharp-shinned hawks: A single-layer to light double-layer glove works well. Accipiters have sharp talons but moderate grip strength. The bigger concern is their tendency to grip and release repeatedly (footing), which can wear through thin leather over time.
• Red-tailed hawks and Harris's hawks: A double-layer glove with mid-forearm coverage is the minimum. Red-tails in particular have powerful grip strength and long talons that can easily puncture a single-layer glove. Harris's hawks are generally gentler on the glove but still warrant double-layer protection.
• Peregrine falcons and prairie falcons: A medium-weight double-layer glove with good dexterity. Falcons have shorter talons than hawks but strong grip. The emphasis should be on glove flexibility for handling hoods and lures.
• Goshawks: A heavy double-layer or light gauntlet. Goshawks are notoriously hard on gloves and on falconers. Their powerful feet and long talons demand serious protection, and their temperament means you may need to handle unexpected gripping episodes.
• Eagles and large owls: Full gauntlet, triple-layered in the hand. No exceptions.

Care and Maintenance

A well-maintained falconry glove will last years. A neglected one will dry out, crack, and fail when you need it most. Follow these guidelines:

• Clean blood and food residue promptly. After each session, wipe the glove down with a damp cloth to remove any meat, blood, or casting material. Letting organic matter dry into the leather attracts bacteria and accelerates breakdown.
• Condition regularly. Apply a leather conditioner such as neatsfoot oil or a beeswax-based balm every few weeks, or whenever the leather feels dry and stiff. Work the conditioner into the leather with your fingers and let it absorb overnight. Avoid over-conditioning, which can make the leather too soft and reduce its structural integrity.
• Dry naturally. If your glove gets soaked in the field, let it air-dry at room temperature away from direct heat. Stuffing the fingers with paper towels helps maintain shape. Never use a hair dryer, heater, or direct sunlight to speed drying, as heat causes leather to shrink and crack.
• Store properly. Keep your glove on a glove form or stuffed with paper when not in use. Store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Do not leave it crumpled in a hawking bag or vehicle glove box.
• Inspect for wear. Check seams, the thumb gusset, and the landing area (top of the fist where the bird perches) regularly. Replace the glove before a seam failure results in a talon reaching your skin.

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